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Reactor FAQ

  1. Why is the Reactor NOT adjustable when other regulators are?

  2. I've heard Lithium Polymer batteries are dangerous, why do you use and recommend these?

  3. What charger do you recommend?

  4. How does the receiver get power with the Reactor regulator?

  5. Will the Reactor reduce my models range?

  6. What battery do you use Scott?

  7. Can I use more than 7.2-7.4V battery with my Reactor?

  8. My Reactor heatsink is hot even when I am not flying, why is this?

  9. How long does it take you at the field to charge your 3200mah pack Kokam 2 cell 7.4V packs using the K&S Delux 2 charger. Do you charge them in your helicopter?

  10. Do you know of anyone using Airtronics 94758Z High Torque/ Hyper Speed Servo. Any problem using them with the reactor?

  11. I have a question about the voltage of your Reactor, is there a problem using it with Futaba 4.8V digital servos like S9252 and S9255?

  12. I have a question about this Dual Voltage regulator. How much is it the efficiency. Relation between Power-In and Power-out.

  13. Using an on/off switch with the Reactor...

  14. Can you please advise if Reactor is safe to use with Futaba 9255 servos, limited to 4.8V?

  15. I'm looking at purchasing one of your regulators to be fitted to my Raptor 50. For a 2S1P 2000 mAH pack how much flying time would I get using digital servo's? Also between flights how can I check the supply remaining in the cell to avoid a flat battery during flight?



Engine FAQ

  1. What OS engine do you use?

  2. Do you use a pumped engine?

  3. What glow plug works the best?

  4. My OS 91 engine overheats and I can't find a good mixture to solve this, any ideas?

  5. What fuel do you run for 3D? I noticed you have less smoke than some other guys.

  6. What kind of gasket do you run on your mufflers where it attaches to the engine?

  7. How do you set your engine needle valves?

  8. Still thinking about the OS91 SZ... I know the MP2 made a huge difference on my TT 50 engine. Any ideas why my YS61 works ok until I try to hover inverted it then bogs like it is running out of fuel. If it is running too rich would that bog it down when inverted. The fuel lines are all new the clunk in both the header and main tank look fine.

  9. How do you setup and run your OS SZ-PS engines? Did you make changes to your engines or the regulator? It seems the regulator blows a lot of fuel out.



Setup FAQ

  1. How many flight modes or conditions do you use for 3D and F3C?

  2. How do you adjust maximum pitch on your helis?

  3. How much expo or dual rate do you use?

  4. Where is your collective stick on the transmitter during hover, 50% or 75%?

  5. What RPM do you set your governor to?

  6. How can I get rid of some interaction on my CCPM heli?

  7. How do you setup your Throttle Jockey REVMAX with your 10X radio?

  8. New Vibe 90 Rotor head..."

  9. One piece KSJ Flybar...

  10. Vibe 90 maintenance - How much I should expect for maintenance knowing that I will only fly about 6-10 flight/week?

  11. What is the cost of typical crash?

  12. Do you use muffler pressure or crank case pressure in your Cline setup? How do you install the tiny check valve?

  13. I have a stock Sylphide 90 and I want to know the maximum length main / tail blades that can be run. I will be using this machine for FAI only.

  14. Vigor CS 90 Rotor head question...

  15. Tail rotor setup with the 90 CS/Vibe...

  16. My Venture 50 has a lot of blade grip slop...

  17. Can you share some of your Sylphide setups?

  18. I am looking to get my 2nd Heli. I'm willing to spend about $1,300...




1. Why is the Reactor NOT adjustable when other regualtors are?

The Reactor was designed to be very user friendly and provide the best balance between increased performance of the servos and electonics while not damaging or overdriving them; decreasing your radio system's lifespan. Steady 5.2V is available to the RX and gyro/tail servo/accessories and a higher 5.6V power bus is preset to get solid performance and more speed from your CCPM or mechanical mix servos. You do not need to calibrate, adjust or worry that the voltage may not be set right. No voltmeters and resistive loads are required to set as with some other systems. Just PLUG-and-FLY!



2. I've heard Lithium Polymer batteries are dangerous, why do you use and recommend these?

Li-Po batteries are a very good battery choice for r/c because of their capacity/weight ratio. Ni-Cad and Ni-MH batteries of the same voltage and capacity could weigh double that of a comparable Li-Poly. So I use LiPoly to safe weight in my helis while maintaining or actually increasing flights per charge. If you use the recommended charge rates, chargers and storage guildlines, the Li-Poly battery is a very safe and reliable battery pack. I have even experienced some crashes where the battery was folded in half. No fire or explosion resulted in my experiences. When I store my models for the winter or more than a month of no flying, I unplug the battery from the Reactor to prevent eventual discharge and possibility of leaving the model ON. For those who are somehow still afraid of these cells keep in mind that you often hold them next to your ear in your cell phones!

3. What charger do you recommend?

I recommend the K&S Delux 2 charger available from RC Helis Plus. I also use the Triton fast charger. The new K&S model is very fast and is not as conservative as the Triton while charging Li-Poly batteries. Both work well and always give a good charge. I would always purchase a charger that reads out the mAh as it charges. I monitor the total mAh input after charging as a guildline for how many flights I got per charge and how much capacity is used per flight. My 3D helis tend to use about 400mah per flight.

4. How does the receiver get power with the Reactor regulator?

The RX is powered by 3 leads from the reactor at 5.2V. The three leads double as power input to the RX and remaining channels, and they also deliever the signal from the three high power servos on the Reactor's servo power bus. This is a very unique design that no other regulator features. The power is more efficiently sent directly to the servos rather than through multiple connections where power is often lost. The three power leads to the RX also are redunant and can supply more current than a single connector would.

5. Will the Reactor reduce my models range?

No, the Reactor has been tested in many configurations and models and no range degradation has been found. A range check before installation and after to compare is always recommended however just to be sure. It is a good idea to do range checks with your model when changing any of the electronics!

6. What battery do you use, Scott?

In all my .90 size models I use Kokam 2 cell 7.4V packs. They are very reliable and can be fast charged through the Reactors charge cable at 3.2A so i never charge at home anymore, just at the flying field. I get about 8-9 flights on a fully charged 3200mah pack.

7. Can I use more than 7.2-7.4V battery with my Reactor?

A higher input voltage is not helpful and will not make the Reactor perform any different. Infact the higher voltage batteries simply waist the added potential when used with any regulator in the form of heat. Save weight and stick with 7.2-7.4V battery packs of any type.

8. My Reactor heatsink is hot even when I am not flying, why is this?

You probably have many or all servos under a lot of load even when sitting on the bench. Modern digital servos will take all the current they can get to hold a set position. Go over your entire model and make certain that all linkages are easy to operate by hand, everything moves smoothly, and most importantly no binding exisits at any time!! It is normal that the heatsink will be warm to the touch, but never so hot as to burn your fingers, even when flying. Always mount the Reactor in open air not contained by packing foam and tie down materials in your model. I do not cut any special air-intakes in my canopies, but I do make sure the heatsink is open to the air in the canopy of the heli.

9. How long does it take you at the field to charge your 3200mah pack Kokam 2 cell 7.4V packs using the K&S Delux 2 charger. Do you charge them in your helicopter?

To be honest, my favorite feature is that you can fast charge through the Reactor while in the model, and with the amount of flying I do, and often a quick decision to go to the field, I always fast charge! Fast charge Kok3200mah at 3 to 3.5A and normally it will take 45 mins to fill after flying about 6 times.

10. Do you know of anyone using Airtronics 94758Z High Torque/ Hyper Speed Servo. Any problem using them with the reactor?

I have not heard of any customers specifically using the 94758Z servo, but it is possible someone is out there. I would not expect this servo to be much different in amperage draw compared with other high-end digital servos such as the JR 8311's that I currently run. To test, fully charge your battery, then put in 2 flights in the normal flying style that you do and length as well. Then, fast charge the battery and when full, take note how much mAh was input into the pack after your 2 flights. For example, if you fly twice, then find charging puts in 800mah to fill it from that point, you are averaging 400mah per flight. Use this as a rough guideline for how many flights you can get per full charge. Make sure not to use every last drop of capacity in your battery however!!

11. I have a question about the voltage of your Reactor, is there a problem using it with Futaba 4.8V digital servos like S9252 and S9255? I think the voltage of 5.6V is very high for a 4.8V servo. I know a fully charged 4.8V batterie has about 5.6-5.7V, so this may be the same, but this voltage is normally only for a short time not for all the time like I would have with the Reactor.

Yes, most servos are rated at 4.8V because this is the voltage of standard 4 cell battery packs such as are included with all radio systems. In reality, as you noted, a charged standard pack will give 5.6 or more volts. This is safe for the servos. You may notice that other regulators run at even higher voltages such as 6.0V. Some people use 5 cell packs and at full charge the voltage can be very high. This is too high in my opinion and my experience.

I chose the 5.6V as a safe, but best performance voltage. The Reactor supplies this voltage perfectly constant up to the max amperage that servos can draw, so there is not voltage and current spikes and change in feel and performance during the flight. It is very noticeable the consistent feel the 5.6V gives the servos. 5.2V is also running to the RX and remaining servos such as gyro and throttle etc. This is a safer voltage for the high speed tail servos commonly used with today's gyros.

12. I have a question about this Dual Voltage regulator. How much is it the efficiency. Relation between Power-In and Power-out.

Reactor is unique design and does not use switching regulator circuitry as some other products do because of RF problems that can result. Ours is linear regulator and best efficiency is obtained when using 7.4V li-poly because the voltage is not too much higher under flight loads than the regulated 5.6V and 5.2V. At average to high rate of current flow (as found in 3D extreme flying with CCPM setup) the Reactor may be dissipating about 1.5W to 4W of power based on battery condition/voltage of a 7.4V pack.

There is not a lot of heat generated by our system which is why a very large and heavy heat sink is not required.

13. Using an on/off switch with the Reactor - Both helicopters have hitec digital servos for the tail and all other servos are analog. What I like most about the ubec is its constant 5.0 output to the servos and being able to fly for 12 plus flight without charging. I would like to know, when using digital servos, when using your setup with the 7.1 4200 mah, how many flights can you get out of one charge? Also, I know your reactor is compatible with an existing switch, does your device have a switch, or do you need to use with an existing switch? Do you recommend any switch over another?

On my 90 size models with all digital JR servos, I am getting about 7 flights per charge on 3200Mah Kokam 2 cell. My friend uses the 4200 TP and gets well over 10 flights, probably more to spare...

Reactor can be used with your existing ON/OFF switch and it converts it to a failsafe switch. For example the On/off switch is not inline with the power any more, it only controls when the Reactor is OFF. If you use no switch, you can fit a servo lead with a jumper connector to use as On/Off, and when you pull the jumper OUT, the Reactor turns ON. This is what i used in Taiwan to save weight on my helis, I do not use On/off switches any more, and the Reactor always stays on no matter what.

You can use the worst on/off switch with reactor and it will not matter, because it only turns the unit off, it does not affect the power on status.

14. Can you please advise if Reactor is safe to use with Futaba 9255 servos, limited to 4.8V?

Yes, a lot of my customers are using with 9255 Servos. Most servos will say that they are 4.8V only, but what this means is nominal voltage, or basically telling you to use a 4 cell nicad pack. At a full charge even a 4.8V pack will show 5.6V at peak voltage after charging.

This is why I chose to design the Reactor at 5.6V because it is still within safe limits for lifespan and reliability of all servos. You will notice very consistant and powerful feel of the servos when operating on the 5.6V voltage bus on the Reactor.

15. I'm looking at purchasing one of your regulators to be fitted to my Raptor 50. For a 2S1P 2000 mAH pack how much flying time would I get using digital servo's? Also between flights how can I check the supply remaining in the cell to avoid a flat battery during flight?

The 2S 2000 Lipo pack you have chosen would work very well for a 50 size model and I would estimate you can get about 5-6 flights per full charge with this pack. Infact, recently to save weight on my Vibe 90's I have gone to a 2100mAh pack and even with 3D on this machine I can get 4-5 flights. So I'm sure in your 50 you will get similar or more.

To check the battery between flights, I am using a small digital volt meter. I plug the volt meter into Reactor's heavy duty charge lead and turn on the TX and RX. To put a real-life load on the battery, with the system on, I put pressure on the swashplate by hand to see what kind of voltage drop is found in the battery on the voltmeter. This will give you an actual loaded condition and give an accurate voltage reading of the status of your battery. I do not tend to fly less than 7.4V nominal voltage.

Also, I will fly for example 3 flights after a full charge. Then I charge and record the mAh that was input into the battery during the charge to top it up. So if after 3 flights, I put in 1200 mAh, I know that on average each flight uses 400mAh. With a 2000mAh pack installed I would fly 4 flights before recharging in this example.

Engine FAQ


1. What OS engine do you use?

I run the OS C-Spec 91 heli engines. I do not use the PS version because it only has a 2 needle carb, although this is usually fine for 3D flying.

2. Do you use a pumped engine?

I perfer to use a pressurized fuel system and fuel regualtor fitted to the OS 60KC carb. I fit Cline fuel regualtors to all my carburetors and use a one-way check valve from the crankcase to supply pressure in the fuel tank.

3. What glow plug works the best?

I use the OS#8 plug. I also run OSA5 plug and one OS#8 when on my engines fitted with OMI Viperhead 2-plug cylinder heads. The OS#8 is a medium heat plug and the A5 is slightly colder. Used together a very favorable smooth running engine is the result.

4. My OS 91 engine overheats and I can't find a good mixture to solve this, any ideas?

Sometimes different blends and types of fuel can ignite sooner than others. Antime the fuel pre-ignites excess heat is created. Richening the mixture can cool the motor but power is sacrificed. If your motor runs hot and inconsistent try a cooler plug (A5) or what usually always helps is add one more head shim. Adding an extra head-gasket (OS stock shim is 0.008") the compression ratio is lowered and a slower burn results. Now you can tune the motor for more power and the overheating is solved. I often run a total of two stock shims on my motors and power is up and overheating is down.

5. What fuel do you run for 3D? I noticed you have less smoke than some other guys.

I use Cool Power 30% High-performance heli (pink color) mixed in equal parts (1:1) with Cool Power 12.5% heli (purple color). The result is about 21% nitro and multi viscosity blend of oil. The CP30 contains thin oil in high percentages, while the 12.5% heli has less quantity of oil, but it is thicker viscosity. This blend produces the SAME power as CP30%, but has less smoke and is easier to tune! Not to mention the cost is down because you can buy the less expensive 12.5% and mix with the CP30. I do not recommend the low oil blends that some manufacturers offer in order to have less smoke. The price you will pay is often rear bearings and piston rings in your engine as it is not protected enough. As a note, I use this 50/50 blend of fuel in all my helis 30 size, 50, and 90.

6. What kind of gasket do you run on your mufflers where it attaches to the engine?

I only use hi-temp RTV silicone sealant on my mufflers now. Nothing else seems to last or seal as effectively. Some gaskets work for a while, but burn out and leak, get brittle and break often and worst of all, gaskets compress and over time your muffler mounting bolts will losen and fall out... at the worst time too!

7. How do you set your engine needle valves?

With a 2 needle carb simply do the following: 1. Adjust the low end for a steady idle and transistion into hover. 2. In idle up/stunt mode, climb straight up at full power for at least 5 seconds; listen carefully and look for amount of exhaust smoke. Adjust the main (high end) needle 2-4 clicks at a time to get the best climb out possible or until the engine does not have exhaust smoke or sounds crackly or lean/hot. Do not be afraid to continue to lean out the motor until a change is found. At this point back off the main needle a few clicks for best climb out and NO overheating or inconsistant running. 3. Now readjust the low end needle to achive the best hover and idle. Some comprimising may have to be done here. Remember!! The low end needle will affect the mixture all the way into hover range of the throttle. Use the High needle only for 50% throttle and higher adjustments. Use the low end for hover ajustments and idle as well.

A three needle carb follows the same procedure with setting 1st-idle, 2nd high end, but then adjust the mid needle for best hover and no-load flight in stunt mode (ie. zero pitch during a stall turn or similar). Remember the needles will overlap, so for hover, you can adjust the mid and low end together to get the best result. For stunt mode flight, adjust the High and mid needle for best all round mixture for full load (max pitch) and no-load flight.


8. Still thinking about the OS91 SZ... I know the MP2 made a huge difference on my TT 50 engine. Any ideas why my YS61 works ok until I try to hover inverted it then bogs like it is running out of fuel. If it is running too rich would that bog it down when inverted. The fuel lines are all new the clunk in both the header and main tank look fine.

You will enjoy the power of the 91SZ a lot. It is a powerful motor and your Vigor will now jump around as easily as the 50 does or better. A pump or regulator will directly affect the power of the motor, only consistency. However, with standard carburetor and good needle settings it should perform very well over all. You would only benefit from a pump if you are into F3C flying or 3D where a lot of tossing and turning right to the last drop of fuel.

Your YS sounds like it is lacking tank pressure, or, the diaphragm in the engine regulator pump is not working correctly. A new check valve and new fuel lines all round, and if that doesn't do it, removal and inspect the regulator... possibly could be it.

9. How do you setup and run your OS SZ-PS engines? Did you make chances to your engines or the regulator? It seems the regulator blows a lot of fuel out.

The SZ PS I have been using FULLY STOCK for some time now. I do not use any muffler pressure to the tank. Please try this. Also, the vent line from the tank instead of muffler pressure, use a large and easy to move one-way check valve similar to YS type. In fact, I use a very large one-way valve from R/C airplane smoke systems. They flow incoming air very easily but do not allow fuel out of the tank vent line. Check that the regulator is tight... not sure why fuel would come out around there... sorry!

Setup FAQ


1. How many flight modes or conditions do you use for 3D and F3C?

I use a hover mode, 1 stunt mode, and autorotation. I do not have multiple modes for aerobatics because I focus on trimming the heli in one mode to fly well in all conditions and through all manuevers. Keep it Simple.

2. How do you adjust maximum pitch on your helis?

I always start with +10/-10 degrees pitch. Most helicopters equipped with recommended blades, gear ratios, and engines will be able to pull around this amount of pitch angle. Once the engine is carefully tuned for best mixture as described in ENGINE FAQ Q7, add or decrease pitch to get the desired RPM you want. A good ear, or a rotor tachometer is needed to find the best pitch/RPM tradeoff. In the end you want your motor to be happy when full pitch is applied at any time in flight. It should not bog and slow excessivly, nor should it overspeed or leave the motor unloaded too much.

3. How much expo or dual rate do you use?

In my JR 10X radio, I usually use about +20 to +25% expo on the cyclic, and in hover mode only I run about 60-70% Dual Rate at the same time. Futaba radios require negative values on the expo to SOFTEN the feel. In the end however, it is personal taste and based on factors like RPM, blades, and paddle choice. Try to make the heli feel stable, but responsive at the same time. Do not be afraid to adjust Expo values anywhere from 0% to 50% and Dual Rates between 100% and 50%. Trial and error works best to find your personal favorite.

4. Where is your collective stick on the transmitter during hover, 50% or 75%?

I setup my helis to hover at 65% stick or almost 2/3. When I flip to stunt mode, the heli will drop very slightly and now the collective
stick needs to be at 75% to hover in stunt mode, and 50% stick is 0 deg pitch.

5. What RPM do you set your governor to?

Since I am running the Model Avionics REVMAX, I still use throttle curves on all flight modes. However, the REVMAX works like a limiter and can only take power away if overspeeding is detected. I set the overspeed RPM to be 1600-1700RPM in the hover and 1850-1950RPM in stunt mode for all my helis. In the hover, I purposely have a high throttle curve to force the REVMAX to govern the throttle all the time, but in stunt mode the thottle curve is basically a standard V-Curve.

6. How can I get rid of some interaction on my CCPM heli?

CCPM can work very well if you use quality digital servos. With or without digital servos, all CCPM systems may have slight changes as you move through the collective. This is simply because not all servos are identical and so they sometimes move slightly different (centering and travel). Today, most will work fine with no adjustment but if you really want to tune the CCPM system perfectly I've found the following works very well without a ton of new mixes having to be conjured up.

Start by leveling the swash at your zero pitch mark- IN STUNT MODE! I'm assuming for this discussion a +/-10 degree pitch range for 3D helis. Move the servo wheels on the servo output to where they are 90 degrees to the pushrods so that you will have equal travel when you go positive pitch as you will when you give negative pitch (the output or distance the pushrod will travel is the same amount both ways). Once you have this set on all 3 servos, fine tune with SUB TRIM in your radio on each channel to make sure all servos are 90 degrees to the pushrod. I use a transparent drafting compass to measure 90deg between the link and the servo arm/wheel.

Adjust the links to the swashplate (and any links on belcranks between the servo and swashplate) so that the swashplate is LEVEL and halfway in its travel window on the mainshaft. Verify the swash is level by looking at the paddles, are they level as well? Now go to full negative collective and while doing this hold one of the paddles. Rotate the rotor head to make the flybar inline with the cyclic you are checking. Check elevator, then aileron. You may notice that as you move the collective stick and the swashplate moves to negative pitch that AT THE SAME TIME the paddles are changing a few degrees or less... This is what you want to mix out.

How do you do that? Use the Travel Adjust function in your radio. Right now you probably have equal amounts of travel both ways for each of the CCPM servos. To get rid of the paddle movement adjust the travel end point % to make the swash travel FLAT all the way down to full negative pitch. So you may have to add a bit of travel on the aileron servo, take some travel away on the opposite servo to even things out. Do this for elevator as well. You will have to remove or add equal amounts of travel to the front servo and the back TWO servos if there is any interaction to remove.

This sounds complex, but in practice it is not too difficult. Just feel with your hand through the whole pitch range if the paddles are moving. They should NOT. So do what is required in the ATV's to make that happen. I find that only +/-1 to 3% is ever required on any servo to fix things at the full negative and full positive positions of the swashplate. Remember to leave the SUB trim alone because it is used to trim the swash flat at the ZERO pitch position.

The last step is to fly the model and test at zero pitch, full pitch and negative pitch that the model does not roll or pitch (elevator axes). Fine tune with the Sub trim (for zero pitch), and ATV's for max and min pitch so that the heli tracks straight!

After that is done, you will have a perfectly trimmed collective system that has no interaction or trimming problems in any stick position.

7. How do you setup your Throttle Jockey REVMAX with your 10X radio??

Do the following setup for 10X radios:

  1. Plug the revmax into throttle as normal
  2. Plug the speed control into GEAR channel
  3. Do initial setup of the Revmax as per the instructions using the Gear SW to toggle on/off during the setup.
  4. After that is complete, inhibit the Gear SW (in CODE17 on your JR10X) so that only a P-mix can operate the speed channel/Gear and the Gear SW is completely inactive.
  5. Using CODE 56 and mix GEAR to GEAR channel, then modify to be FMOD to GEAR by selecting the mix type on the 3rd page. This is a special non published mix that only mix #56 can do in the 10X when you mix GEAR to GEAR (so channel 5 to 5). Now you have your flight mode switch operating the gear channel, or speed in this case directly. No changes to knobs, ATV's or otherwise are required!! Now go to the mix56 main page with the mix curve. Flip though your normal and stunt modes (whatever modes you use) and ADD a point so that point on the mix curve can be adjusted. To adjust the RPM simply move the point on the P-mix curve that is at the hover, stunt 1, 2, 3 etc. up or down.
  6. My helis use around 58% in normal mode for approx 1650rpm hover, and when you flip to stunt modes have those mix points be around 70-80% output and then fine tune it to the speed you like.


Hope this is clear, it is best to go through and try it on your 10X. It is very simple, and I find it extremely useful and easy to adjust. You get a visual display of the speeds on the P-mix curve and simply move the desired flight mode point on that mix curve to speed up or down your RPM.

8. New Vibe 90 Rotor head - Using either the hard or soft dampeners, my grips are tight. Specifically, when not connected, the grips are not loose enough to rotate freely on the bearings, but rather they just remain in what ever position they started. IT is almost as if the bearing is being compressed in the grips and not rotating freely. I experimented with several different shims and dampeners and the only thing that appeared to be true was that the grips were tighter with the hard dampeners vice the soft ones. The bearings don't appear to be notchy but rather just tight. Do you have any experience with the new VIBE head? Not sure if things just need to work in some or there are other issues

All hard dampeners should be used for best 3D performance. I also found that my grips were not silky smooth when my kit arrived. I took apart, put in the hard dampeners with some light ceramic white grease as lube, and used some thinner shims that I have around from my SGP rotor head that is essentially the same design. The thinner shims allowed me to fine tune it better. As long as they are easy to move, and not NOTCHY (BB's sticking).

9. One piece KSJ Flybar - I am not a big fan of the stock flybar arms, I would rather have captured flybar links using the KSJ piece flybar control arms.. However, the KSJ part is not wide enough to fit over the Vibe's Mixing Arms. I had an extra set of Vigor mixing arms, but they do not fit and would require a new standoff be made. Have you heard of anyone using the KSJ One Piece Flybar arm on the Vibe? Any other options available for a one piece flybar arm?

I like the KS one piece flybar arm as well. So to use this item I had to go back to the Vigor type seasaw mixing arms (aluminum not anodized black , and lower ratio). These do not go as far past the seasaw like the Vibe ones and allow you to use the KS unit. No other easy way to use Vibe parts and the KS, sorry! :)

10. Vibe 90 maintenance - How much I should expect for maintenance knowing that I will only fly about 6-10 flight/week?

The new Vibe 90 is a very good heli. I just finished building 2 more for this season to use at events and competitions. The kit is very complete and ready for 3D without any modifications. Like the Vigor, I have found it to be very low maintenance. I simply clean the heli after flying sessions and usually find nothing to replace or tighten. I have had over 500 flights in one summer on each Vibe. Both have proven to be very robust and consistent. Because Vibe is designed to have low parts count and simple design but very strong, it is a solid machine that requires little build time and maintenance.

11. What is the cost of typical crash?

Typical crash will be average parts cost I assume. It all depends of course on how you hit the ground! I have found that many parts do not break or bend and it is usually typical blades, spindle, shafts and tail boom sometimes. But you never know!

12. Do you use muffler pressure or crank case pressure in your Cline setup? How do you install the tiny check valve?

With a cline regulator, you must use crankcase pressure. The small check valve is installed by putting some light oil or white ceramic grease (not petroleum based), then push it into the fuel line with a 2.5mm ball driver or similar. It only has to be pushed into the line about 10-15mm.

13. I have a stock Sylphide 90 and I want to know the maximum length main / tail blades that can be run. I will be using this machine for FAI only.

Regarding blades, I can only use the 720mm blade with Vigor SGP/ Vibe narrow type rotor head. If you use stock head, it is larger diameter, and you can run up to 700mm blades. I ran the stock head for a while and used Rotor tech 700mm A-tip blades which are the same as the 720's but shorter. Try these, I'm sure you will like them.

14. Vigor CS 90 Rotor head question - I have your SGP head on it with the standard (stock) flybar ratio, which I believe is near 1:1. I would like to lower the flybar ratio to the Vibe's option (0.7:1). My question is, is this possible to do with your SGP head along with the mixer arms and seesaw from the Vibe with no further modifications? In other words, is there any interference problems that you are aware of? I already have the swashplate and other areas on the head mast block machined for clearance issues.

Yes, you can use the Vibe seasaw and Vibe new mixing arms for the .7:1 Ratio. With the SGP head, the geometry will be the same. Keep in mind that you cannot use the KSJ gold loop flybar control arms with the vibe parts...

15. Tail rotor setup with the 90 CS/Vibe - I am curious as to your setup using the 7000t gyro. I recently replaced the 601 gyro in my 90 CS with the 7000t. I am running the following setup for 3D: servo bell crank offset: 17mm (2nd hole from last on large arm) t/r pitch lever offset: inner hole heading hold gain: 42% % tail lock: 120 55% expo (expo/linear)

What are you running in comparison?

My 7000T settings are as follows
  • Gain 55% High for stunt 3D
  • Gain 48% Low for stunt 3D extreme piro rate
  • Heading Hold %: 100% always
  • Heading Lock: Always
  • Servo arm: JR HD arm 2nd hole out from center of servo (3rd hole in from outer) T/R pitch lever: outer hole
  • Blades: 105mm Rotor Tech carbon
  • Expo: 35% Normal. All modes.


16. My Venture 50 has a lot of blade grip slop. I've noticed from the first few flights that the head has quite a bit of damping. Since then, I've upgraded the head with KSJ red hex dampers and a 6mm spindle along with changing the stock blade grips to the Ergo type (though I don't know if the grips helped much or not but they seem 'beefier' in cross section). The combination of these increased the stiffness of the damping but I would like to tighten it up more. It seems the blade grips have a lot of inherent flapping in the design as compared to my Vigor CS. Do you have any recommendations as far as what else to try to stiffen the damping further in the Venture 50 head?

Like you, I have found the need to tighten up the dampening on the VE50. All I have done is gone to the hardest dampers I can find but all else is stock. I believe I use a few extra shims on the outsides of the dampers to push them in harder into the head block. Also, I found some thin wall brass tubing that fits over the spindle shaft and cut some that fit inside the damper holes. This really helps to stiffen the dampening.

The grips are sloppy; but remember that when the head is spinning, there are hundreds of pounds of force pulling the grips out straight. You will notice a slight improvement by going to metal grips, but you will lose some stability. It is more beneficial to figure a way to create harder dampers.

17. Can you share some of your Sylphide setups I am having trouble getting it to lock in a hover. I am currently flying with a 450 flybar with weights right out on flybar & the SAB carbon paddles 40g i think. i have tried the head rubbers tensioned up ( hard ) & un-tensioned & with a head speed of 1450 to 1500rpm. The head mixer arms are set to the inner most hole I believe this to be the lowest mixing ratio?? In a windy situation it is all over the place vertically & laterally, with leading edge blade grips i thought this would be better in the wind as the advancing blade should respond to wind lift by correcting it with negative direction pitch making it less jumpy ????

I am now flying Sylphides as I guess you have heard and found a few things to help it sit well. With the metal rotor head as you are using, you may want to try a longer fly bar than 450mm you are using. I have had better results with 510mm flybar. 40-50g paddles with some tuning weight about mid flybar. I run about 70%DR and 20% expo (soft) on cyclics. The stock/medium hardness dampeners are fine but put the collars fairly tight. With Rotor Tech blades that I use I find that a higher hover speed of 1650RPM works very nicely. A linear collective curve ("line" is a better descriptor) for hover that is approx -4deg bottom stick, 4deg mid stick and 9.5deg high stick. With a very straight section (no points or curves) between 1/3 stick and 7/8 stick on hover mode. Hopefully that makes sense

The leading edge grips will have little effect on wind correction. That is the delta mix you are speaking of. I have found it not to work well in all cases and having the grip balls close to center of the spindle teetering point is best (little or no delta). Fly bar lengths and blade:flybar mixing ratios will affect wind compensation most.

Also I see you are running a lot of direct blade mixing with the balls very close together on the bell/hiller mixers. Try moving these apart a bit more to get a more even mix of blade/flybar mix.

Finally if that all does not find you in a better spot, then what I have found to be even better is a Vigor rotor head with my SGP center yoke and stock plastic grips. In fact I have not found any metal head by any manufacturer to be as stable as the Vigor head with plastic grips! The plastic has some dampening affect and for some magical reason makes the model very locked in especially hover. I find many all metal heads to feel like you are balancing a ball on your finger, it never wants to stay put. But the Vigor head feels more the opposite and stable.

18. I am looking to get my 2nd Heli. I'm willing to spend about $1,300. I would like to get one good enough for a beginner, but also good for a pro, if possible. I already have a fleet of planes and would rather not have a fleet of heli's. I ordered the G3 flight sim and it should be here Friday. I would like to have a .90 size or maybe drop to a .50 depending on $ and your recommendations. I need a complete setup: Heli, engine, rx, tx, gyro, servos, and anything else you can think of. I had considered an electric, but I was told that the bigger heli's are more stable and easier to fly.

I would recommend getting a JR Venture 50. That is the most bang for your buck! You should easily be able to afford the following for this model:

JR Venture 50 partially built kit OS 50 SXH or Hyper engine (I would not substitute for a different engine, it's not worth the headaches!) JR 500T gyro - heading lock on always, this is a great gyro Any TX/RX combo you like and in your range. The JR 6-9 channel systems offer a lot of functionality and can fly airplanes too, have a look at what is available at www.horizonhobby.com. A good set of blades early on is nice to have, you will really like the Rotor Tech 600mm for the 50 size heli.

I would steer clear of electrics for now, as they require expensive batteries, chargers, and while they do perform well these days, they still don't quite compare to a well tuned glow engine. Just fill it up and fly. No charging to remember and packs to lug around. But that's just my opinion :)

You can always jump into a bigger heli after you get back into it and some experience again. The 50 size heli will be just as capable as any 90, but at a fraction the cost and is much less intimidating to fly and operate.

Definitely get on a good simulator like Realflight G3 if your computer will run it, or G2 the older generation is good too for getting the reflexes working and the brain thinking before you try it out for real $$.

Hope some of this helps, but remember, whatever model you get in the end, as long as you maintain it well, practice and take your time, it will be a very enjoyable hobby to have.
   

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